This is NOT a close-fitted bodice.
I could store a spare tyre or seven in here.
I’m feeling a bit hang-dog that this is my third bodice and they’re getting worse! I can’t understand where all this extra room came from, since it certainly wasn’t in its predecessor. Bah. I’m supposed to test out my sleeve pattern now, but it seems pointless when (desperately-needed) changes to the bodice will demand changes to the sleeve.
Most frustrating is that I have two classes left – not time to fix this, check sleeve, and draft skirt. Grrr.
Well, that was interesting.
Back with the regular teacher. While he’s not as outgoing as last week’s replacement, he is very generous with his time and knowledge if you show interest and know what to ask. I showed him the better-but-not-perfect second bodice and he said no, not to do the FBA because that adds length, whereas I need more width. He also didn’t like the wee bit of gape at my neck (not really visible in that picture).
So, two things – first he showed me how to trace a template of of the neck-waist-dart-shoulder section, pare off a tiny bit at the neckline, and hide it in the shoulder dart. Cunning. Secondly, he didn’t like the big bust dart and thought much it should be moved to the waist dart. A bit of slashing and spreading and redrafting later, and he was pleased. “You’ll have a really nice fit now, a real 50s bodice,” he said. One of the happy results of this is that the corner of the bodice, the bit at the sides between the two darts, now sits on the true bias. Lovely. Will cut another muslin in the next few days and show y’all.
I also drafted a sleeve, too. I’m suspicious… it looks an odd shape to me.
The gentle decorum of the patternmaking terminology cracks me up. ‘Bust and seat’ are so coy and demure. I’m dying to just say ‘tits and arse’ but the teacher might kick me out.
Oh, and I just saw JuliaB put up instructions for a skirt block at House of Marmalade. What brilliant timing!